Fri 23rd Jan: Across the Andes to Chile

I'm leaving Argentina and I can't wait to get out. I've no more interest in the place and after returning to the country from Bolivia its been an ant-climax. I'm heading for Valparaiso in Chile and I'm looking forward to it. We have to cross the Andes one more time and this turns out to be the most spectacular border crossing of them all. The mountain valleys are beautiful as we climb towards the frontier. By lunchtime we're at the customs post but there's a queue and it takes three hours before our bus gets through. Another three hours down the road and we reach Vina Del Mar at the coast. Most of the passengers leave the bus here. Most are Argentinians starting their summer holidays, heading for the resorts around Vina. Myself and an Irish couple are left on the bus, the most miserable couple I've ever seen. They don't seem to be talking to each other so it doesn't really encourage me to engage with them. I say hello but the response is lukewarm. Who cares.

Twenty mins later we're in Valparaiso. It looks good. Its an old port town built on a series of hills huddled around a crescent-shaped bay. It used to be a wealthy town. Back in the 19th Century Valparaiso was the busiest port on the Pacific coast after San Francisco but the construction of the Panama canal killed a lot of 'Valpo's' business. The port remains and, judging by the size of some of the tankers moored in the harbour, it still does a brisk business. I found a hostel on Cerro Concepcion, the old historic quarter overlooking the port and town centre.

Immediately I feel at home here. I like the faded grandeur of the place. The hostel I'm in is a grand old 19th century mansion in a grand old neighbourhood. The place is colourful. The houses are painted in all shdes of colour. Murals adorn most blank walls. The bars and cafes have character. The people are friendly. I drop my stuff at the hostel and head down town to eat. Its 8pm and I haven't eaten since breakfast. I call into a bar where there's a large group of office workers knocking back cocktails. It feels like one of the old bars you'd find in Galway. I sit at the bar and order a shrimp pasta and a couple of local brews to wash it down. The bar mans chats away in spanish asking what I think of the food and beer. Both are 'muy bien'. I become curious as to what the group of office workers are drinking. There are fresh sprigs of mint in the cocktails and it leaves a pleasant scent. I'm told they are Mojitos. I ask whats in them and then decide to try one myself. There's one guy preparing all the cocktails. A member of staff invites me over to watch as mine is prepared. Its good. I have another. They go down very easily on top of the local beers. They don't hold back on the rum in these drinks. I have one more. I didn't realise how strong they are. I do now. I feel very tired. Its been a long day but a good one. Its good to back in Chile.