29.10.09

Last seen in Antwerp

Excuse the previous two blow outs. I got into a bit of a strop there. I've calmed down now. I was in Antwerp talking to the alcoholic manager of the hostel I was staying in and his sidekick an ex-soldier of the PLO apparently. They operated mostly out of the hostel bar which served as reception, office, lounge etc. The manager rarely got more than one-two hours sleep each night. Early in the day he looked like that but by lunchtime and a few drinks under his belt he had woken up, or at least, pushed back the hangover by 24hrs. The hostel itself was barebones, as barebones as you're likely to find. The guys rarely left the bar so there wasn't much to the dorms other than four walls a floor and a ceiling. Ancient creaking bunkbeds with saggy mattresses and a single blanket serve for the bedding. Extra beds could be found by placing spare mattresses tat were piled high in one corner around the floor. That wasn't necessary on this occasion. There were about 7-8 staying when I arrived. One of them was an American guy who had been in the same dorm as me in Ghent and came over on a morning train. There were two Canadian guys who were cycling around Europe and had arrived from Ghent the previous day and a dutch girl working for a Dutch singer helping to promote him at venues where he would perform. The singer wasn't staying in this hostel his gig had been cancelled but the girl hadn't been told so she had been stranded in Antwerp for the day.


I had a look around the old part of the city. While the street layout and some of the buildings remained unaltered since the late 16th century. Much of the old town had changed. I arrived in Antwerp on Oct 8th some 420yrs and 4 days since Francisco De Cuellar sat down in a room somewhere nearby to write, by candle light, an account of his experiences with the Armada. Ironically just across the street from the hostel I was staying in there was a house fully restored to 16th century conditions, decor etc, and a couple of alleys next to the hostel are unaltered since then as well so I had to have a look. After a quick look it was back to sample some of the local Antwerp brews and I realized why the manager was always drunk. Their brews are so strong. The house beer is 8%, another one 'La Chouffe' is 14%. A couple of glasses of those and you're in happy land, just don't try getting off the bar stool. The manager joined me for a bit when he heard I was from Ireland. By now he was full of beans. He reckoned he knew where Leitrim is. He said he'd been to Ireland once for two months. He'd travelled by submarine 'to do something that had to be done' but he neither said what it was he had to do nor how he got back home again. I'm presuming it was in his submarine. A real international man of mystery this guy.
Later he and the PLO lad were going out for the night and I was invited along but I politley declined. My bidget wasn't going to stretch to their copious capacity for alcohol consumption and I was already feeling the effects a few glasses of the potent La Chouffe. Within éà mins the PLO lad was back looking after affairs so perhaps his ability to get by in the hostel relied on his ability to have good excuses on urgent matters back in the hostel when he's being dragged out to drink with the boss. I went to bed humming the yellow submarine.

10.10.09

Mon 5th Oct: In Bruges

Sorry there have been no text with pics. I haven't had any real time to get typing on this trip. As soon as I arrived in a place you go out for a look around. It's different to America where there wasn't a whole lot to see in the towns. Some of the internet cafes dont allow usb connection so I'm falling behind. I typing this in Mons (Tues 13th Oct). Bruges was good, but a very prim and proper tourist town. A lot of people think its boring but I liked it. I hung around with three Spaniards and a Chilean during my time there and had a great time talking "Spanglish" with the spaniards laughing at my attempts to speak spanish, getting me to repeat certain phrases that they found particularly funny. They're from Cadiz and said I should visit them when I get to Spain (Just to hear me order food in restaurants and tavernas I think!!).

I moved on to Ghent and promptly crashed, for the first time, in the city centre when my front wheel got caught in tram lines. To judge by the expressions of onlookers it was quite dramatic. two people came up to see if I was ok. Mais oui madames, but of course! I did go over the handle bars but rolled on the ground rather than landing hard. My left knee was a bit sore but otherwise fine. Very embarased of course with a big tailback of traffic behind me. No damage to the bike thankfully. Ghent was nice too. Very medieval like Bruges but if the former has an old town that is all prim and perfectly intact then Ghent is a grungier version. Loads of medieval, even a dramatic looking castle in the centre of town but sprinkled with modern buildings. More a working town than a glitzy tourism hotspot. The town plaza was all dug up with works which didn't really help the effect. At night Ghent is very atmospheric with the old buildings lit up lining the cities canals. While I was there it was a little misty creating an almost haunting glow around the streets at night.

I pushed on to Antwerp last Thursday but only stayed one night. It was an easy spin up from Ghent but once I got into the edge of town I found I was on the far bank of a very wide River Scheldt which links the town to the sea. There were no bridges to be seen crossing the river and no ferries to be seen either. I knew of a car tunnel but I couldn't use that so I was stumped for a couple of minutes until I saw a girl cycling towards a large building not far from the river bank. I followed her, saw another cyclist there waiting outside what looked to be a very large elevator door. It turned out there was a pedestrian tunnel here that runs under the river with elevators at either end to bring you back up to street level. It was a novelty cycling through that tunnel, racing the two girls to the far side and then getting into a sulk when I lost!! However the city centre was nice. I found a cheap hostel just around the corner from the town square which was both full of character and a dive at the same time. It was run by an alcoholic who's drunk most of the time, and when he's not drunk he looks and acts like a crank in a big hangover. He's being helped by a guy from Palestine who says he was a "soldier" there so its up to everyone to interpret that as we please............. Sorry gotta go

5.10.09

Sun 4th Oct: Dunkirk to Bruges
























































Fri/Sat 2nd/3rd Oct: Dunkirk





























Thurs 1st Oct: Blankenberge-Dunkirk
























































Wed 30th Sept: Blankenberge
















Tues 29th Sept: Rosyth to Zeebrugge