Tues 4th Nov: Buenos Aires to Colonia (Uruguay)

I got up at 6.50. Had a quick shower and went straight out the door. I took a 15 min bus ride to Avenida Cordoba and from there it was only a 5 min walk to the ferry. The sailing was at 9am but we had to be there for 8am and check in was like at an airport. I checked my rucksack in, it was tagged for Colonia Del Sacramento and trundled off on the conveyor belt. We were on the ferry about 8.45 and it pulled out into the Rio Plata bang on time at 9am. We weren´t allowed up on deck so I settled into my seat to make a start on the diary. According to the timetable the ferry crossing would take 3hrs. When we flew over the Rio Plata arriving in to B.A. it hadn^t looked that wide but this was supposed to be a slow ferry.

Outside the waters of the Rio Plata were a murky brown, not very appealing. But I think the colour was more due to sediment than to pollution as this is a major river estuary. After about 50 mins announcement came over the tannoy to the effect that we would be docking in Colonia shortly. It was a pity. I{d been looking forward to 3 hrs on the ferry.

Once off the ship we had to go through the routine of baggage collection and then inspection by customs officials. It was hot as I left the ferry terminal. The hostel I,d picked out from the guidebook looked to be close by, a 5-10min walk. Sure enough less than 10 mins later I was at the door. Even so I was lathered in sweat and felt uncomfortable. I wasn,t the only one from the ferry checking in here. THere was quite a few lining up to check in. Once through the formalities I was shown to my dorm. In fact they had advertised single rooms and I had been looking forward to a room to myself but now I was told they didn{t have any. I was disappointed but so far I was the only person in the room. I had a shower and lay down to sleep for a while. I don,t like being in dorms. They are taking a bit of adjusting to again but they are the cheapest accomodation so I,ll have to make do.

In the afternoo I had a wander down to the old town. Colonia had a colourful early history. It was set up as a base for smugglers under the protection of the portuguese to bring in Contraband in to Buenos Aires which was a spanish city. The town and its port were situated on a small peninsula across from B.A. The town was fortified from attack with strong ramparts protecting the landward side. The town gate and some of the ramparts still stand as do many of the cannons used to fend off attackers. The smuggling business was obviously very profitable for Colonia. The Spanish, unable to take the town they built a rival city as a check against Colonia. This was closer to the mouth of the estuary at Montevideo. Eventually the Spanish did capture Colonia and gave it the once over.

Today the Old town is very picturesque. The narrow treets are cobbled with quaint pink cottages, small restaurants and bars and the occasional hotel lining the avenues. The tree lined Plazas Mayor and Armas form the atmospheric heart of the place. The waterfront looks out onto a scatter of small islands in the esturay and today the water twinkels and sparkles under the sunlight. The busy Avenida General Flores links the old town with the larger new town.

What is particularly noticeable in Colonia, as opposed to B.A. are the number of ancient looking cars on the streets. In B.A. most o the cars look new or recent but here many of the cars look like they date back to the sixties. The air is fresher here than in Buenos Aires but it is a small town. The cars still cough out balls of black fumes but thankfully they get dispersed on the breeze.

In the evening I went down to the waterfront to watch the sunset. It didn{t disappoint as a brilliant orange sun turned fiery red as it slipped slowy below the horizon. Just as the last sparkle of sun disappeared a ripple of applause broke out amongst some of the onlookers scattered along the length of the promenade.