Tues 3rd Feb: Night Ferry to the Ha'ppai

Today we're hoping to catch a ferry to the Ha'appai islands, a group that lies some 120km to the north of Tongatapu. However we're unsure if the ferry is leaving today or not. Yesterday We got conflicting reports from different people. Some people said yes, some people said no. This morning after breakfast 6 of us who intended travelling to the Ha'appai took alift with Peter down to the wharf to find out exactly what was happening. According to the schedule the ferry leaves at midday so we brought our rucksacks with us. Down at the port after numerous enquiries we find out that the ferry will leave tonight. We can't get tickets at the wharf where it appears locals are buying theirs We have to buy our tickets at an office back in the town centre. When we have our tickets bought Peter brings our luggage back to the hostel while we spend a few hours around town. Earlier we had settled up what we owed for the night's accomodation and get to meet the famous Toni. It felt a bit like going in to the headmasters office in school as we each settled our debts. Toni's known as an eccentric character but he was grand with me. He was in the middle of a bout of dengue fever and so, was very much under the weather. Apparently there's a bit of a dengue epidemic on the island so, to be honest, I'm glad to be moving off the island as its mosquito ridden.

I spent a few hours around town. I started off with Ruth and Dave, a couple from Yorkshire who were also getting the ferry tonight but after a while I struck out by myself. The people in Nuku'alofa are very friendly. A couple of times as I sat down in the shade people came over and said hello. The local Police chief who was waiting on a lift home came over and sat with me until his lift came along.I asked him if there was much crime in Nuku'alofa. He replied that there wasn't much but that it was beginning to rise now with the return of emmigrants from New Zealand and Australia, some of whom are coming back with criminal records. Its hard to imagine much crime here. Even the cars drive slowly around town.

In the afternoon, just before I was about to walk back to Toni's, I took a photo of the market when this old guy on a bicycle came over to me. He had cataracts on bot eyes so I don't know how much he could see. He joined me and we spent a while talking as we walked out of town. He had recently been digging in some fields. A selection of newly dug vegetables suggested he'd been digging for his dinner. A fresh layer of earth coated his boots and clung to his shovel which was strapped to the bicycle. The old guy must have been poor. His clothes were soiled with grime, his nails, black with dirt and his boots were tattered. But he was a jolly fella. When he smiled there were gaps from missing teeth. Those that remained were stained yellow.

He asked me where I was from and I told him I was from Ireland. He said he'd heard of it, that it was very green. I agreed. He wanted to know where I was staying in Nuku'alofa. How long would be staying? Would I be going to the Ha'appai and Vavau? He pointed out buildings to me and told me he'd been to New Zealand many years ago. As we walked along school had ended for the day and we began to meet large groups of schoolkids heading home. Many smiled as we passed, some said 'bye'. The more confident approached and said 'How-are-you'? before quickly retreating to their friends, all of them giggling. All the kids were in smart, colourful uniforms. Their shirts and blouses brilliantly white. None wore shoes. Sandals and flip-flops are the common footwear here.

The old guy remained with all the way to the edge of town. I was beginning to think he was coming to Toni's with me. A number of times he had to stop to adjust his ta'ovala, the traditional apron-like matting which his worn around the waist. We parted at a supermarket. I had to go in to get a few bits and bobs for the dinner so theold guy said he'd be on his way and waved farewell. I walked out to Toni's in dripping heat, had a shower straight away and relaxed until it was time to go to the ferry.

We had been told to be back at the ferry for 9pm so myself, Dave and Ruth met up on the wharf with another couple Tahani and Dave and their friend Christina who had stayed in Toni's. The six of us joined a large crowd of Tongans on the wharf and waited until it was time to board the ferry, Pulupaki. The ferry was lit up the darkness and the wharf was a hive of activity as three forklifts worked up and down the slipway filling the hold with cargo. 10pm came and went. The forklifts continued to load cargo. 11pm came and went and still we waited on the wharf. What, we wondered had these guys been doing all day that the ferry couldn't be loaded by now. However it was all good natured. We'd been warned about timetables in Tonga and told that delays were normal. We heard that a funeral party were travelling to Lifuka and that a coffin had been brought on board. It added a sombre note to the sense of adventure we felt about this journey.

We weren't sure what to expect with this ferry trip. They are reportedly notorious for rough, uncomfortable crossings. The ferries are reputed to bob like corks on the surface, swaying over and back to an uncomfortable dgree. The Tongans themselves are reputed to be poor travellers, prone to severe bouts of seasickness. With all these rumours we had conjured up a nightmare scenario of storms, discomfort, a heaving deck heaving with stricken passengers and vomit swirling around our feet. We were both excited and uncertain about what the night would bring.

Finally, around 11.30pm with the loading complete a gangplank was lowered for the passengers to board. A crush developed around the plank and slowly a line of bodies were allowed on board. Dave and Ruth got on board first and heldplaces for us on one of the sheltered sides of the top deck. Soon we joined them, made our way up the crowded stairwells and settled ourselves, watching the last of the passengers cross the gangway. And then we waited......

The ship remained where it was. Nothing happened. Dave, Ruth and myself had brought along some bottles of Tongan rum. A couple of drinking games started up as we waited for the ferry to depart. By the time we were draining the last of the rum the boat still sat by the wharf. It was becoming comical now. By now it was 1am, thirteen hours after the official departure time and we still hadn't left Nuku'alofa. Still, for those of us who had polished off the rum we were having a great time. The rum was certainly sitting well with me. I felt I was best mates with half of Tonga. You couldn't shut me up. I ended up chatting to a Tongan soldierjust back from serving a tour of duty in Iraq. He was off-duty yet he was still in his desert fatigues. No doubt this was for the benfit of the locals. Letting them know who he was and where he'd just returned from. He was headin up to Vavau to visit an uncle and relax for a couple of weeks before returning to base in Nuku'alofa. It was interesting to hear of his experiences in Iraq. When his contract with the army expires later on this year he intends going to America to join the U.S. marines.

At 2am the boat finally pulled out of the harbour. We all stood by the railing and watched as Nuku'alofa began to recede. Unlike large towns and cities which light up the darkness with an orange glow, Nuku'alofa has only one set of street lamps which run along the waterfront. We had hardly cleared the breakwaters when the city behind the street lights was swallowed by darkness. The single line of street lights marked the position of the city as the ferry ploughed into open water. Slowly the lights disappeared and the darkness of the ocean settled around us. So far the crossing was smooth. We listened to the breeze and the splash of waves againt the side of the ship as we lay down to sleep on deck.