We settled down to life in the little paradise that was Daiana's. Kelafi and Daiana were lovely hosts. Daily life assumed an idyllic pattern of breakfast, swim/snorkel, laze around in the hottest part of the day, swim, dinner, and when it got dark we would sit around playing cards or listen to Kelafi's stories by the light of an oil lamp.
Daiana’s was located on a point of land set between two beautiful curving strands. Set within a grove of coconut trees which provided some shelter and shade it consisted of a collection of small traditional fales, a kitchen/ common room, and a toilet and shower. A cyclone hit the island two weeks before we arrived and high waves caused damage to some of the huts. During our stay Kelafi was busy building a new replacement. There was nothing fancy here, the fales was small, simple mats covered the ground and mattresses were laid on the matting. Mosquito net draped from the roof . There was no electricity. A full moon or hand held oil lamps provided light after the sun went down. Everything was simple, there were no frills yet Daiaina’s resort was full of comfort, warmth and character. There were no villages on the island, no roads, no traffic. The only sound was the constant rumble of the surf as it broke on to the beach a few metres away. Ocasionally the buzz of an outboard motor sounded from a passing boat travelling between Lifuka, to the north of us, and Uiha, to the south. Otherwise the island was tranquil, idyllic. Under the bright sun the water was a mix of blues, greens and turquoise broken by the white crests of the surf rolling in. During the afternoon heat a breeze cooled us as it rustled through the coconut trees.
On Thursday we were joined by Dave and Ruth who, after staying on Lifuka for a night, had managed to hitch a lift on a passing boat. It was Tahani's birthday and for dinner Daiana had cooked some fish and lobster which Kelafi had caught especially for the occasion. After the sun went down Kelafi lit a fire on the beach and we sat around, watching the orange flames flicker into the darkness, as Dave strummed a mandolin.
Daiana and Kelafi were very warm, hospitable people. They had very different personalities but they worked very well together. One complementing the other. Kelafi, an outgoing, exuberant extrovert who delighted in telling us tales of life in the island. Despite losing an arm years ago Kelafi still makes nighlty swims out to the edge of the reef in the darkness to fish with a harpoon and torch for fish and lobster. The results of his efforts would be presented to us with great aplomb the next day at breakfast or dinner. We became accustomed to eating lobster on Uoleva. And it was delicious.
Daiana, by contrast, was quiet, gentle, dignified. While at time she didn't say much her eyes would light up with a smile or a wave whenever she passed. Her cooking was delicious. It was apleasure to get up each morning and anticipate what Daiana had prepared for us. Would it be banana muffins, pancakes or scones made with coconut milk. Her dinners were equally delicious, served with a jugs of freshly squeezed lime juice but the freshly baked breakfasts were a treat.
Daiana was particularly good to me. After spending too long snorkelling on the reefs during the first two days I had been quite severly sunburned on my back and, more painfully on my feet. My back kept me awake at night but, of more concern were the feet. They swelled up and I had difficulty walking. Seeing my discomfort Kelafi suggested Daiana give me some 'Tongan medicine'. Neither had seen feet quite as badly burned as mine before. After breakfast on the fourth day Daiana came over to me as I sat by my fale. She brought freshly picked chilli leaves which, she said, would ease the burn and help to heal the skin. She rolled them and squeezed out some juice which she gently spread over the burnt skin. After a minute or so I began to feel the cooling effect and it brought some relief from the discomfort. Over the next few days it became a routine, twice a day for Daiana to apply the 'Tongan medicine'.
On Sunday I went to mass with Tahani and Christine to hear the famed Tongan church music. For mass at 9am we were up at 7 to walk over to Lifuka. It was a good two hour walk from Daiana's to the church on the edge of Pangai. First we walked along Uoleva's beaches to the causeway which we had to cross in deep water as the tide was coming in. I wasn't sure if we should attempt the crossing at all but the two girls ploughed into the water so I had to follow. The waves rolled gently in but came up to shoulder height on me. I had to hold my change of clothes high up over my head to avoid a soaking. We made it across to Lifuka after nearly 45 mins in the water and then followed a narrow road which led to Pangai. We made it into the pews just as mass began. My sunburnt feet were sore but the traditional songs of the choir were worth the effort. I hadn't heard anything like the sounds and melodies the singers produced. Looking around the church all the locals were dressed immaculately for church in local costume. It was almost like attending a wedding. The women wore brightly coloured dresses and wide-brimmed hats. The men wore blazers and traditional sarongs. After mass we returned by the causeway and got back to Daiana's around lunchtime in time for the traditional sunday dinner cooked in the ground, an umu, an earthen oven. Going to mass at home was never quite as adventurous as this.
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