Back in Huaraz I decided to go to mass tonight. Evening mass was at 8pm and this is the big Christmas mass here. Christmas is celebrated on the night of the 24th here rather than on the 25th with us. We always tend to go together as a family at home so I thought it only appropriate to go while I was away. I was also curios to see how mass is celebrated here. After a quick wash and shave I ran around town and ended up in Iglesia San Francisco. Due to my detour I arrived a little late. Mass was already under way.
The church was full. A large crowd had congregated at the back just inside the main entrance. Pepole were standing up along both side aisles and through the centre aisle. I moved through the crowd to stand just at the back of those seated. There was a choir, 4 altarboys, 2 priests celebrated mass. Eventhough the mass was in spanish it took the same format as home so it was easy to follow. It was a lot slower than at home though. This mass would run to 2hrs. A group of dogs wandered in during the gospel and made for the altar. It was a pity one of them was in heat. They were ejected unceremoniously to muffled laughter from those near the door. One small dog lingered around until the sermon was about to begin, obviously looking for its owner who must have been in the congregation but who declined to reveal himself. The priest, preparing himself for the sermon, was singularly unimpressed by the distraction and asked for the dog to be removed. Three women rushed out of the front seats to confront the wee dog who, naturally, began to dodge them. One of the women aimed a kick at him and missed again, bringing out laughter from the crowd at the back. As the women retreated a young fella ran out from a pew, picked up the dog and carried him out.
With all distractions removed the priest proceeded with his sermon. He approached the podium confidently with a hint of a swagger. He flicked his hair dramatically and began. The sermon was tame enough to begin with but soon the priest warmed to his subject. His voice rose, his expression became more intense. Soon his hands were raised, gesturing and pointing to the heavens. The whole tempo of the sermon rose. The congregation was swept along by the fervent ardour of their pastor. This priest was taking on the demeanor of a baptist minister Any moment I expected him to shout out "Halleluja brothers and sisters. Come on down bretheren. Everybody in the house come on an´let me hear ya say A-men.
Ironically in the middle of this I began to feel a strange sensation in the pit of my stomach, this quickly spread through my arms to my finger tips. I began to feel faint, not, unfortunately because of the zeal of the sermon, but because I was badly dehydrated. I d hardly drunk or eaten much throughout the day. I had to leave the church for a few minutes or I would have collapsed. I sat down on the steps of the doorway, held my head in my hands and breathed in deeply. In the cool fresh air I began to feel better. After a few minutes I was able to return to the back of the church where I stayed for the remainder. The sermon was over, a small blessing because it was going on and on.
Mass proceeded without further mishap but when it came to the "peace be with you" section I turned to shake hands with the person next to mewho promptly turned and embraced me. I then had to hug all around me. Just before communion there was an adoration of the child jesuswhere everybody went up and kissed the baby s feet. At the conclusion of the mass I made for the exit. Along the way three-four people came over and shook my hand wishing me "Feliz Navidad" which was quite nice.
Back in the hostel the Christmas celebrations were in full swing. Shortly after I got back the kids were given their presents so there was a good deal of excitement. I made myself a big mug of sweet tea and sipped it gratefully as I watched the kids gleefully show their toys to the whole family. When the excitement died down dinner was served and wasn{t I glad!! The family occupied the main dining table while those of us guests presents (there were 4 of us) were invited to have some dinner in the lounge area of the same room. It was very nice of the family and they continued with their meal as if we weren{t there at all. It was good to see christmas in a family situation here. Dinner consisted of turkey and a potatoe/apple puree which was actually delicious. Dessert consisted of hot chocolate and Paneton (a light fruit cake). Outside fireworks and bangers were being set off in the streets. These impromptu fireworks reached a climax at midnight with a mass of explosions to mark the hour. Shortly afterwards I went to bed. I was still feeling a bit lightheaded after nearly fainting earlier.
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