Sunday Dec 21st: To Lima

As dawn broke we had come through the mountains and were on the outskirts of the town of Nazca, famous for the Nazca lines. We were low down on the coastal plain now which we would follow for the next few hours up to Lima. This was mostly barren flat desert interspersed here and there with pockets of fertile valleys. In the desert we passed through a few strange looking settlements, shacks scattered across the sands. There were no paved streets, no cars, no lighting. They looked deserted but here and there a person appeared wandering between shacks.

Everything had calmed down on the bus after last nights shenanigans. At one point I went to the toilet and passed the lady and toddlers who had kept us all awake. One glance at the kids was enough to make you forget they had ever annoyed you. They were the cutest wee things playing together and giggling away. Two little girls with lovely brown skin, dark eyes and long black hair. You wanted to pick them up and cuddle them. Little feckers!! Eventually we hit the outskirts of Lima and in good time we hit the Cruz del Sur terminal. Bus terminals can be a confusing business in Peru. There is usually no single central bus station in a town. There can be many. Each bus company might have its own depot. On this occasion in Lima I discovered even Cruz del Sur has more than one depot and I wasn t at the one I thought I was. However I got sorted and a taxi brought me to the hostel I had picked out in the centre of town. It ws a secure looking hostel in what is supposed to be a rought part of town. I m only in town for a day so I reckoned I d be ok.

I need to sort out a plan for the remainder of my time in South America. I intended being in cuador for Christmas but loking at what I want to do with the time I have left it doesn{t look feasible. I realise I ll have to drop Ecuador and head for northern Peru instead. I should have enough time then to do what I d like to do.

I go out to look at Central Lima and buy a ticket for tomorrow to Chiclayo on the northern coast. From there I want to go to Chachapoyas and be there for Christmas. At the station I m told all buses to Chiclayo are booked up until after christmas. Immediately my plan has to change. There are buses to Huaraz which is up in the mountains, 10 hrs north of Lima. There are seats available so thats where I m going to be for Christmas. Tomorrows bus leaves at 10pm so I{ll have an extra day around Lima.

As I wander round Lima I m approached by loads hawkers selling computer software, knick knacks, shoe shiners, kids selling sweets. The centre is very busy, crammed full of people, shopping, buying stuff, selling stuff, strolling around. Between Plaza San Martin and Plaza Mayor is a pedestrian street something like Grafton street. Its packed with people, uncomfortably so, and again people are continually approaching me offering this or that. I m tired after the bus journey and getting fed up with the hawkers. You try to be polite but eventually your patience wears thin. Its been like this in all the big towns since I came into Peru.

In the PLaza Mayor some sort of event is going on. There s a stage with musicians performing for a sizeable audience in the square. There s a large police presence here. Riot police stand around as well as regular uniformed police. It feels uncomfortable so I leave the Plaza. In a nearby street a religious procession is taking place. A statue of our Lady on a large platform is being carried by 16 men neatly dressed in fine suits. Accompanying them is a brass band playing sombre latin music. In front of these is a group of samba drummers and dancers dressed up with faces blackened. Its an unusual looking accompaniment to such a formal religious procession.

I have a flu coming on. I can feel it in my head and in my breath which feels unnaturally hot. Im tired and impatient. I decide to return to the hostel and head back the way I came, back through the crowds. The hawkers gather again and swoop. I m really resenting them now. An old, stooped, shoe shiner approaches me as I wait to cross a street. He s wearing a grey jumper and ragged brown trousers, stained and 2 sizes too big for him. His shoes are worn but shiny. He offers to clean my runners and despite saying Non Gracias twice he persists, a little too much. I turn to him and say angrily Bastante, Enough!! I emphasize this with a slashing gesture. The old man retreats a step, apologises and shuffles away. Immediately I feel bad at my outburst. After all the old guy was only trying to earn a little money. A few minutes later I try to ease my conscience by giving a young lad whose selling sweets some soles.

I return to the hostel quickly and lie down. In the evening I go out and eat in a nearby seafood restaurant, a cevicheria. Afterwards I don t linger about and I m back in the room early. I read a little and try to sleep but its not easy as I m all bunged up and hot with this flu that now taking a grip.