Sat 20th Dec; The problem with overnight buses

I woke at 6am to rain. It continued to rain until lunchtime. I had a quick last look around Cusco before getting the bus to Lima at 2pm. This is another long stretch of a journey, 21hrs. As I left the hostal the two girls who work there, Sonia and Rosio, had a big goodbye for me. Earlier, Sonia had asked if I would bring her to Ireland. I didn´t understand and it had to be translated for me. I replied diplomatically "Next time".

Leaving Cusco the bus took the road to Abancay which meant we would be cutting straight through the mountains to the coast. This is reputed to be a spectacularly scenic though unreliable route in the wet season due to landslides. For 4 hours we climb slowly into the mountains and the route becomes increasingly spectacular. We pass a couple of small,poor looking mountain villages. These are agricultural communities and, judging by the large groups of people out tending to the crops together, it must be a communal effort. The ground appears very fertile here as all kinds of animals can be seen grazing here. cows, goats, sheep, pigs etc. It seems the younger kids and older women tend to the animals while the adults work on the crops.

By 6pm we cross a high mountain pass. Down in the valley below lies Abancay. It takes us nearly 40 mins to descend the mountain as the road switches over and back constantly. The bus is still in bright sunshine but down in the valley Abancay is in a twilight with darkness about to descend. We reach the town in darkness and stop for 20 mins before continuing.

The curtains were pulled shut onthe windows for the night. We had dinner and afterwards the hostess handed out bingo cards for the now customary game after-dinner game of bingo. Later after the last film on tv had ended the lights were dimmed and everybody tried to get some sleep. I had difficulty getting to sleep. I was sneezing. I could feel a flu coming on. I managed to doze for a bit but the bus was back crossing some more high mountains so it was constantly twisting and turning through bends. If you got comfortable you were soon shook out of that position and had to shift again to get comfortable.

Two small children were travelling their mother and sitting a few rows back. At some point the kids began to cry. After a few minutes they were settled but soon the wailing began again. This continued off and one for a couple of hours. Initially there was sympathy for the mother but this gradually dripped away as she failed to settle the children. She hadn´t brought any drinks for them and other passengers had to give bottles of water to help. The mood changed from one of discomfort to frustration, to torture. As the toddlers kept a running commentary amidst their cries open revolt broke out as passengers complained loudly and mutter angrily. The hostess could be heard softly asking the mother to try to keep the kids under control. The mother began to cover the toddlers mouths toshut them up but this only made it worse. In the confined space of the upper deck of this double decker everybody was awake...... except for the old guy next to me.

Two mothers went downto help out. One of them must have had something which they gave to the kids and miraculously the settleddown a few minutes later. At around about this time the old guy next to me began to snore. We had just been tortured for the last 3 hours by young kids. I was not going to tolerate this not from the old guy next to me.

With my temper rising I sat as he snored into my ear. I tensed up as each snore rattled through me. I decided to hit him with my shoulder to see if a jolt would cause him to shift position and stop. I hit him gently at first, almost politely, but he didn´t stir from his slumbers. Each time he failed to respond I hit him a little harder, and a little harder until I was rocking over and back hitting into him. But this did no good, it was ridiculous. My frustrations piqued by his ability to sleep through almost anything. I began to wonder if I should punch him instead. I closed my eyes and wondered if I should, weighing upthe possibilities.

Once again the old guys head lolled onto my shoulder. Snoring loudly, his mouth open and saliva dripping out one side. I punched the guy on the shoulder. The old procedure now repeated itself with punches. Still no response. My temper was at boiling point now. What did I have to do to make this guy stop snoring?? I was almost shaking with temper when once again he gave out a deep rasping snore. That was it. I´d had enough. I snapped. I hit him. My fist shot out sideways catching him on the jaw with all my strength. The bus shuddered, I jolted with shock. I couldn´t believe what I´d just done. I opened my eyes wide. I looked across at the old guy. He was still sleeping peacefully....and quietly. I´d been dreaming?? Thank God. I had been dreaming. Relaxing, I smiled at the vivid dream I´djust had. Just then the old guy opened his eyes looked at me and saw me looking at him smiling. He looked surprised then frowned, quickly turned his head and leant away from me, crossing his arms defensively. My smile froze. Dumbstruck at what had just passed. I thought to myself "I bet he thinks I´m a pervert". Cringing with embarassment I twisted in my seat to look out the window. I definitely couldn´t sleep now.