Tuesday 25th Nov: Perito Moreno Glacier

We´re off to see the Perito Moreno glacier today. Its just over an hour away by bus. Deep in the mountains it feeds lago Argentino with its meltwaters. Its one of the largest and most stable glaciers left in the world. Its one of many in this national park but its the most accessible one, and the most visited.

On the bus we followed Lago Argentino for about 50km, running parallel to its brilliant aquamarine waters. We then turned off the main road and meandered into the mountains following the shore of another lake which would take us directly to the Perito Moreno. The first hints that we were getting close to our destination was the sight of icebergs floating in the lake. We turned around a bend and at the base of a panorama of mountains lay the Perito Moreno, a huge craggy field of snow and ice the size of Buenos Aires. Its front end butts up against a narrow shoulder of land which seperates the two lakes it feeds. Huge chunks of ice periodically collapse off the front of the glacier and fall with a thunderous roar into the lake water.

We had a number of hours at the glacier before the bus returned to El Calafate. We took a bus into lago Argentina which brought us quite close to front of the glacier. It was impressive with cold winds sweeping down over us from the top of the glacier. But it wasn´t until another boat came by us and went almost dangerously close to the glacier that you could truly appreciate the sheer size of it. Its enormous. And constantly groaning and shrieking as the ice shifts downwards. The time went quickly as everyone waited for the next big crash of ice into the water. >The biggest one I saw came around 3.30, about 30 mins before we left. A big crack sounded and a roar of ice cascaded from the face of the glacier directly infron of me leaving a fresh scar of skyblue ice.

Back in Calafate as I went to the supermarket I realised my face was burned. I hadn´t put any suncream on and although I wore a hat it obviously wasn´t enough. From the way my face felt I knew I was very red and with big white Panda eyes from wearing shades I made quite a sight. Sure enough I drew quite a few amused glances from some o fthe locals. Served me right.

Making dinner I caught the end of Man U v Villareal. Tomorrow I go to Puerto Natales in Chile so I got my ticket sorted in the bus station. With nothing much to do and a burning face lathered in suncream I went to bed and read. I´m still alone in the room so I looked forward to a long sleep. About 10.30pm a knock came on the door and one of the girls from the hostel brought a lad into the room. (not impressed). Sure enough he was French and sure enough he didn´t stop mooching about until after 1am. Mais oui!!, he had to wash all his clothes...... in the room and hang them up...... all over the f*****g place!!! Oh but petit pois, aujourdhui, monsieur!! By Jaysus when I get home I´ll be teaching Danny K a few french phrases for his next holiday in Provence and it won´t be Bon Jour and Au Revoir!!

Finally I got to sleep. The skies lit up over El Calafate tonight. It wasn´t the Aurora Borealis. Oh no, It was my sunburned face!!